How to “Deep Hide” Your Firearm for Survival

One of the key survival strategies that few people know is how to “deep hide” your firearm.

This involves properly weather-sealing and burying it in a hidden location (called “caching”).

As you probably know, I’m doing a series of articles on caching in the Journal Of Tactics and Preparedness with a former sniper from the 1st Special Forces Group (which you can sign up for by going >HERE<, but today I’ve got part of Course 404 from The Prepper Academy for you on a slick method for caching firearms.

You see, it’s good to have an inexpensive handgun or rifle cached just in case you need to keep it out of the hands of looters or even renegade troops during martial law gun confiscation (hey – it happened during Katrina!).  It’s also a great way to make sure that a single disaster, like a flood, fire, tornado, hurricane, etc. doesn’t knock out all of your firearms in one single tragic event.

Here’s how to do it on the cheap…

* First, clean and dry your firearm and then, using “G96 Gun Treatment Spray” (this stuff’s the best), spray it liberally all over the firearm, on its firing components, and through the barrel using a patch sprayed with it. G96 is safe (in fact, it’s beneficial) on polymers and wood and will not stain them – and it even smells great!

* Take a length of 11″ x [whatever length your firearm is] Food Saver bag (these come in large rolls similar to Plastic Wrap you use for food)

* Now, use a household iron to seal one end on a hard, flat surface and put the gun in the bag.

* Next, leave at least a 6″ length of the bag above the end of the rifle (on the open bag side).

* Throw a silica gel desiccant in the bag and submerge the bag along with the rifle in a filled tub (making sure to keep the open end of the bag above the water). This will force most of the air out of the bag – effectively “vacuum packing” it – and you can fold over the end to keep it airtight before you seal the open end with an iron.

(David’s addition:  You may want to seal all but half an inch to an inch of the bag so that you don’t have to manage as much open space.  You can also do this by putting your bag on a bed or couch, putting a long pillow over the top, and laying on it to squeeze the air out.  Finally, if you make your hole the same size as a vacuum cleaner or shop vac wand, you can get the air out that way.)

* Finally, place the vacuum sealed firearm in a large-enough PVC pipe with end caps, seal it with pvc cement, and cache in an ideal location.

(David’s addition:  You’ll probably have to drill a hole in the pvc cap to release air pressure and fill it with silicon afterwards.    You’ll want to bury a hacksaw with your cache so that you can get through the PVC to your stuff when you go to retrieve it at a later date.  Alternatively, you can put a screw on cap on one end, but make sure to OVER-lubricate the threads so that you can remove the cap with minimal tools.)

Successful caching involves a lot more than simply grabbing the gear or supplies that you want for a future time and haphazardly burying them in random areas. There is an art and science to the process which is covered in great detail in Prepper Academy.

By the way, this is just a small sampling of their complete end-to-end prepping course provided by Prepper Academy. You can check out the entire program >HERE<…

David

P.S. – Be sure to take advantage of the $50 dollar Black Friday discount to the academy which expires Saturday at midnight! Don’t miss out on this great training at a fantastic price!

 

About David Morris

David Morris is the creator of the Survive In Place Urban Survival Course, the Fastest Way To Prepare Course, Urban Survival Playing Cards, Tactical Firearms Training Secrets, and other books, courses, and articles on preparedness, survival, firearms, and other tactical topics. He lives with his wife, 2 boys, and 2 dogs.

Comments

  1. Interesting idea, just make sure you store some actual ammo with it as well. otherwise you just have a nice bat ;)

  2. Thanks for the info. I’m going to give this a try in the back yard. If I use an Iron will the plastic transfer over to the iron? Don’t want to upset the misses.

    • It depends on how hot your iron is. I’d start with it on low and work your way up. 3 other options…get an iron from a 2nd hand store; put a sheet or sock between your iron and the foodsaver bag; or get a Foodsaver. They’re not cheap, and I don’t necessarily agree with their savings projections, but they’re incredible tools for preserving food and other items.

  3. it might be a good idea to put oxegin absorbers in the back also. [ sorry about the spelling ]
    thanks for the idea and it sounds very good.
    also thanks for all that you do to help us.
    god bless you and your family.
    ron

    • Funny…I was just going back and forth with the guy who created the course about this:

      At best, it’s questionable whether they’ll work (due to the relatively high humidity content required for them to work and how unstable/fragile they are) Worst case, you’re introducing salt, iron, and rust into a closed container with firearms and ammo. The oxygen absorbers are iron and salt…which when combined with water and the oxygen in the air, makes iron oxide, or rust. It’s just not a reaction that I want to encourage next to guns & ammo :)

      What you can do if you really want to get rid of the oxygen is float the container with CO2 to displace all of the oxygen containing air. I’ve used both CO2 and nitrogen (from an ESSY DIY whipped cream setup like what Starbucks uses). CO2 is much cheaper and works better for most caching/storage applications.

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